20 Questions with the Rodfather

1. How often should an e-bike be serviced?

My rule of thumb is to have an e-bike checked every 20 riding hours.

For someone riding once or twice a week, that might mean roughly every two months. Riders who use their bike more frequently, ride in wet conditions or put in a lot of steep, technical kilometres should have it checked more often.

A regular check is usually much cheaper than waiting for a worn chain, damaged cassette, loose pivot or electrical fault to become an expensive repair.

2. What is included in a basic e-bike service?

A basic service is primarily a safety and condition check.

I start with checking that the important bolts are torqued correctly, looks for chain and sprocket wear, then I check the bearings and pivots, cleans the seals, and lubricates the appropriate parts. I have my own technique for lubricating some pivots without completely dismantling them, helping reduce water ingress while keeping them moving freely.

The goal is not to sell an unnecessarily elaborate package. It is to make sure the bike is safe and working as well as its existing parts allow.

3. What types of e-bikes can you work on?

I have experience in working on almost any e-bike having worked with Bosch, Brose/Specialized, Avinox and Fazua systems. The important distinction is that most e-bike motors are not serviced in the same way as a bicycle component. Some older Brose motors can be rebuilt, but many Bosch and Shimano motors are replaced rather than internally repaired.

4. Why does an e-bike motor cut out under load?

If a motor cuts out during a long, steep climb, overheating is one possible explanation. That is more likely in very hot conditions, at high altitude and during sustained climbing in the highest assistance mode.

In normal Wellington riding, however, a cut-out is more likely to indicate a genuine fault. It could involve the speed sensor, motor cable, display cable, battery connection or another electrical component.

The correct diagnosis depends on the circumstances in which the cut-out occurs, not just the error message displayed.

5. What are the most common e-bike faults?

Two recurring problems are speed-sensor faults and motor-cable problems.

The speed-sensor cable is thin and moves with the suspension, so it can eventually break or become damaged. The motor cable and its connectors can also develop connection problems, especially when they have been exposed to water, movement or repeated servicing.

Some bikes are straightforward to diagnose. Others, such as certain Specialized models, require significant disassembly just to access and test the main cable.

6. How do Bosch, Brose, Specialized and Avinox systems compare?

My view is that Bosch is particularly strong in New Zealand because of its reliability, parts availability and after-sales support. Motors, batteries, cables and electronics are generally available through an established support network.

Specialized (Brose) systems can ride very well, but I have seen belt and bearing problems in earlier motors. Rebuilding options have improved, and some motors can now be repaired rather than automatically replaced. Specialized do a good job of carrying spares in the country.

Avinox is still relatively new but my experience so far has been positive, with few motor failures personally observed, although support arrangements are still developing and may depend on the bike brand and local distributor. I’ve worked directly with Avinox and I am happy to sort things out for you.

The best system is not determined by power alone. Local support, parts availability and the manufacturer’s approach to warranty and repairs matter just as much.

7. Why do some e-bikes make a rattling noise?

There are two common types of e-bike rattle.

The first is motor clack. Many geared motors rattle internally when the rider stops pedalling because the drive components are no longer under load. Bosch Gen 4 and Shimano systems are known for this characteristic, while Brose-based systems are generally quieter because they use a belt drive.

The second type comes from the bike itself. E-bikes have extra cables, wires, displays and battery mounts inside the frame. These can tap against the frame as the bike moves over rough ground.

I often use foam tubing, foam squares or other small modifications to secure loose cables and eliminate the noise. I really hate rattle and don’t think you should have to put up with it either.

8. How can I prevent an Avinox display from cracking?

Some early Avinox display units have a thin bezel that can crack if it is stressed by the frame or overtightened during installation.

The display needs to sit correctly in the frame opening before the bolts are tightened. If it is forced into position, or if the frame opening and display do not align properly, normal bike flex can put stress on the bezel.

It is worth having the fit checked before the display develops a crack, because the unit may not be economically repairable once damaged.

9. How do I know whether my suspension needs a setup?

If the bike feels harsh, lacks grip, dives under braking, bottoms out frequently or does not use its travel properly, the suspension may need attention.

The issue may be air pressure, rebound, compression damping, worn seals, the wrong tune or an incorrect spring rate. It may also be something outside the suspension, such as excessive tyre pressure, an overly stiff tyre casing or unsuitable wheels.

Suspension setup should be considered as part of the whole bike, not treated as an isolated adjustment.

10. How should sag be set on an e-bike?

E-bike suspension should generally be set according to the manufacturer’s recommended range for the bike.

As a broad guide, 25 to 35 percent sag is common. Around 28 to 30 percent is often a useful starting point, but the correct setting depends on the bike’s kinematics and the rider’s preferred feel.

Around 25 percent tends to feel more playful and supportive. Closer to 35 percent gives a more planted, ground-hugging feel.

11. Why does my mountain bike feel harsh over trail chatter?

The first possibilities are compression damping that is too firm, dry or sticky seals, incorrect air pressure, or suspension that has not been serviced recently.

The suspension tune also needs to suit the rider’s weight. Most bikes are configured around an average rider, so someone substantially lighter or heavier may need a different setup or custom tune.

Tyres, tyre pressure and wheels can also create harshness. A bike can have expensive suspension and still ride badly if the tyres are too firm or overinflated.

12. Should I run downhill tyres on an e-bike?

I generally favour a downhill-casing tyre on the rear of an e-bike and an aggressive enduro tyre on the front.

The heavier casing gives better support, more puncture resistance and allows lower pressures, which increases grip and comfort. The main disadvantages are additional weight, rolling resistance and some reduction in range.

On an e-bike, those penalties are often relatively small compared with the improvement in traction and reliability. For riders moving between steep technical trails and faster jump or flow trails, a robust rear tyre can provide a useful wider operating range.

13. What is the right handlebar height for modern mountain-bike geometry?

There is no universal handlebar height. It should be considered in relation to the rider’s hip height, riding position and priorities.

I believe many riders run their handlebars too low. A slightly higher bar can reduce fatigue, make the bike easier to control and give the rider more room to move behind the front wheel on steep descents.

A low handlebar is not automatically faster or better. A rider can create a lower position by bending the elbows, but it is much harder to create more room and comfort when the bars are already too low.

14. Should I be running 800 mm handlebars?

Not necessarily.

Wide handlebars can reduce steering twitchiness, but they also pull the rider forward and need to match the rider’s shoulder width, arm length and riding style.

The right width depends on whether the priority is climbing, descending, cornering, comfort or a mixture of all four. I recommend treating 800 mm as a starting point that can be cut down, rather than assuming it is the correct final width for every rider.

15. How quickly do e-bike chains and cassettes wear?

E-bike drivetrains can wear dramatically faster than conventional-bike drivetrains.

The motor allows riders to stay in smaller, harder gears while climbing, and riders may also cover much more ground in the same amount of riding time. The smaller cassette sprockets engage with fewer teeth, concentrating the load on a smaller contact area.

There is no universal replacement interval, but a powerful e-bike ridden regularly can wear a chain and cassette in a fraction of the time expected on a non-electric bike. Regular chain checks are important because fitting a new chain to a worn cassette can create further problems.

16. What happens during an e-bike diagnostic appointment?

E-bike diagnosis is not always as simple as plugging the bike into a computer and reading the answer.

The system may identify an error, but the error does not necessarily explain why it occurred. The underlying problem might be a cable, connector, speed sensor, display, battery connection or mechanical component inside the motor.

Good diagnosis combines the error information with experience, observation and controlled testing. My approach is to identify the most likely and least expensive cause first, rather than replacing several expensive components without knowing which one has failed.

17. How should I clean and store an e-bike?

Avoid pressure washing and do not force water sideways into the crank area, motor seals or bearings.

A gentle flow of water, a number of different brushes and careful drivetrain cleaning are usually enough. After riding or washing in wet conditions, dry the bike thoroughly and store it somewhere warm and dry.

The main risk is not water on the outside of the bike. It is water reaching bearings, the crankshaft area, the motor or circuit boards and then remaining trapped there.

18. What is the difference between a basic service and a full service?

A basic service should establish that the bike is safe, that the bearings and pivots move properly, that the seals are clean, that the chain is not worn and that the main components are correctly lubricated and torqued.

I do not believe every bike needs an expensive, pre-defined “gold” service package. If the bike needs additional work, that work should be identified and explained rather than hidden inside a large package price.

19. Should I buy alloy or carbon wheels?

Alloy wheels are generally the best value option. They cost less, are easier to straighten or repair after a hard impact, and modern alloy rims can be very strong and reliable.

Carbon wheels can provide a more controlled and quieter ride, particularly over high-speed trail chatter. Their stiffness and layup can also be designed to create a particular ride quality.

The trade-off is cost and failure mode. A damaged alloy rim may be dented and repaired. A carbon rim may remain apparently intact or fail more suddenly after a severe impact, and it is generally not something that can be straightened trailside.

For many riders, good alloy wheels with the correct tyres and spoke build are the sensible choice. Carbon makes more sense when the rider values its ride feel and is comfortable paying for it.

20. are Wheelworks wheels worth it?

I originally moved to Wheelworks after years of broken wheels, loose spokes, tension problems, flex and tyres rubbing on frames.

I first became attached to their carbon wheels because they stayed true, required very little attention and gave my bikes a smoother ride. When I began testing bikes for Spoke magazine I started using my Wheelworks carbon wheels on different bikes so that I could compare the frames and suspension more consistently.

Wheelworks has been building custom wheels in Wellington since 2004 and they’ve become experts in testing wheel stiffness, spoke elongation and impact resistance, as well as conducting ongoing real-world durability testing. Its current mountain-bike range includes alloy and carbon options, with custom builds selected around the intended rider and use. Wheelworks, Wheelworks mountain-bike wheels